Cerro Fitzroy
Cerro Fitzroy (Stock Image)
Cerro Fitzroy is perhaps the most photographed mountain in all South America. The soaring vertical granite spires tower menacingly over the tiny tourist town of El Chalten and issue their siren call to would be adventurers. At 3375mt she is hardly the tallest mountain in the Andes but definitely one of the most technically demanding for climbers. People have died trying to reach the top.
For us to get there we must first traverse the remaining 100 or so km of gravel Ruta 40. Much has been made of the difficulty ahead; so much so that Peter decides his ageing body is not up to the task and loads his bike on the support truck and slides in beside Gabby, Roisin and Juan. I even suggest to Sally she might be safer in the truck too. Fortunately it has 6 seats.
Riding the ripio
To our great relief the road is vastly better than yesterday’s gravel quarry and soon Duncan, Scott and Gina and I are streaking ahead at a leisurely 100kph. Cindy however makes a small low speed mistake and falls, hurting some ribs. It is then noticed her bike has an oil leak so Peter’s bike is replaced by Cindy’s and Pete is forced to confront his fear of the ripio. He is a jabbering mess at the end of it but then, Pete is always jabbering about something!
We regroup at the tiny settlement of Tres Lagos with coffee and delicious homemade empanadas for lunch. The sky threatens menacingly as we head southwest towards El Chalten and soon we are soaked by a Patagonian deluge. Clouds hang low about the mountains denying us any chance of even a glimpse of Fitzroy.
El Chalten is a town that exists solely for tourism. It lies in a border region once disputed between Argentina and Chile. To improve Argentina’s claim to the area they encouraged anyone and everyone to come and set up house.
El Chalten and Mt Fitzroy
As a consequence there is a crazy mix of housing styles and construction techniques employed. It gives the town a unique character and we love it although as with everywhere else we have seen in South America there is little pride in home ownership. Lawns are not mowed, weeds are prevalent and gardens nonexistent.
The next morning dawns a little clearer and Fitzroy taunts us occasionally giving a glimpse from behind her veil of misty cloud.
Fitzroy teases us.
A few of us don the hiking shoes and head into the foothills determined to get a little more up close and personal with our elusive mistress but alas it is not to be as she gathers up her cloudy skirts and maintains her secretive distance from us. We retreat to a fabulous cafe and bar for dinner where we drown our sorrow in cheap vino and excellent food.
Trucha local
Fitzroy you have eluded me this time but be warned, I may come back when you least expect it.
The next morning we are on the road to El Calafate, another tourist town and the jump off point for the journey to Perito Moreno Glacier. I promise you it will be epic.
